
I'm talking about stuff like chunky longwings, cords and a well worn jacket, topped it off with a warm cashmere scarf. The sheer variety of cold weather clothing is something many guys look to as the temperature drops.
For those of us with the flexibility to move between business dress and corporate casual, something I call the “Rumpled Look” is a nice middle alternative to being strictly dressed up or dressed down. Originally an offshoot of the American Preppy aesthetic, the rumpled look has come into its own. It's not an attempt to be sloppy, instead it is an homage to worn in classic comfort.

The basic idea behind this look is the allusion to old money, classic taste, and timeless style. Newer or continental styles don’t lend themselves to celebrating beat up and handed down clothes quite like the preppy culture does. The unspoken message of the slouchy khakis, un-ironed oxford shirt and slightly beat up shoes is that you have old money, an Ivy League education, a summerhouse in the Hamptons, and you sail a lot.
Or at least you dress like you do.

Lapo: Master of the Stylish Rumple
This really is a fun look which is not hard to carry off well as long as you don’t try too hard. It's sort of the antithesis to the recent “critter” trend, which left every inch of pants, ties, belts and coats adorned with embroidered animals and icons of every sort – from dogs to martini glasses. Instead of sartorially hitting people over the head with your East Coast airs, stick to a less-is-more aesthetic. One creative article of clothing at a time is nicely ironic, more is overkill.

Simple but Classic
For most men, wearing this look at the office can be a bit tough, but depending on your company’s culture, distressed chinos matched up with an un-ironed button down under a crew neck sweater should be just fine. For a younger look, don’t tuck in the shirt but rather let it hang out under the sweater - just make sure to choose a short bodied shirt. I've found that J. Crew button-downs are often just right. Wear a washed tweed jacket over the whole outfit. This kind of layering effect is another signature of the rumpled look.
Additionally, make sure to opt for clothes that actually fit well. The rumpled look is not an excuse to go baggy or oversized, it is more of a toned down and worn-in take on being well dressed.


Uncomplicated but still Detailed
One of the best things about this type of style is that you can effectively mix high and low to meet int he middle. For example, to meet up with friends for drinks, try pairing a permanently wrinkled (read, make a point of not ironing it) Thomas Pink dress shirt with dark but worn-in jeans and a sport coat. The juxtaposition of classic and casual is a key balance to this look.
Like any other style you want to incorporate into your own, stop and look in the mirror before leaving the house. What's most important is that you are happy with the overall feel and proportion of your outfit. The goal should be to look like you’ve had everything for years and don’t think twice about getting dressed.
The ironic thing is that casual fashion now approaches high art (e.g. $400 jeans) so now everyone knows it took you an extra 45 minutes to achieve that I-just-threw-whatever-on look.
ReplyDeleteI'm with you on layers, but really appreciate the pressed shirt, well fitting (not tight) and shined shoes. It shows a guy cares and it looks right. Very few people can pull off this "look" without looking sloppy.
ReplyDeleteThat second picture looks sharp. Where is that jacket from?
ReplyDeleteThanks for all the comments -
ReplyDeleteDAM - I hear you, and a pressed shirt works equally well. Avoiding going sloppy is the key point with this look.
Jamie - I pulled this short from the Sartorialist, it's from Bergdorf's window.
Perfect for my office in this winter-spring transition!
ReplyDeleteSavile Joe
Amiable post and this enter helped me alot in my college assignement. Thanks you for your information.
ReplyDeleteA big part of pulling any of these "looks" off is not caring too much or not trying too hard!
ReplyDeleteOTC-
ReplyDeleteYou're killing us. Honestly. These types of styles should never be delineated or explained. If you've got them, you've got them, if you can't pick it up from past precedent, then don't even try.
You seem to have a bad habit of exposing the sartorial underpinnings of a type of style that doesn't really want you to expose it. In other words, you're creating a farse. Wearing tweed on top of sweaters, on top of oxfords, on top of polos is not a new concept. Cuffed jeans, khakis, beat up loafers, these are all old concepts. However, you feel the need to "instruct" people on how to do it properly.
Again, try to be a little more original. Giving instructions on "how to wear a blue blazer" or "the rumpled look" just make you come off as incapable of creating anything worth a damn. Try posts that explain old styles, say, for example, "where tweed comes from," the derivation of "elbow patches," or any number of topics that would be more original than what you usually post.
Also, you tend to avoid responses. I, as I am sure other too, would appreciate one.
I totally agree that the best time for men to experiment and pull off more looks is during the colder seasons. I actually think the same goes for women.
ReplyDeleteLove it! Still looks awesome to me. xoxo
ReplyDeleteSC
Anon - Thanks very much for your thoughtful insights. I have to say that I find your comments both interesting and rather narrow minded.
ReplyDeleteFor starters, your assertion that one should simply understand how to dress in this fashion is kind of silly. Why – because you do? Well, I do as well but that’s not the point. The purpose of this site is to help people understand the vagaries of classic styles because not everyone just “gets” it.
While you may feel that styles like these should never be “delineated or explained” because if you can’t pick it up than you’re stupid, I do not. In fact that’s downright insulting – and I suspect that tells me a lot about you. OTC is a site designed to help people who are searching for their own sense of style and for those who love classic dress updated for today. If that’s too pedestrian for your refined palate, I am pleased to tell you that there are many, many other sites at which to plant your flag.
Luckily, since you feel that I am incapable of creating anything worth a damn, I won’t be hearing from you again. Thanks very much for stopping by.
Great post. My stuff is old and beaten up (think growing up as an Indian in London in late 1980s; lots of Thomas Pink and Hackett before they sold out to the football hooligans) and the point is that I love not having to think about what i wear each day. My jeans are not $400 - indeed they are not even $40 - Levi 501s on sale work for me.
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