Last week an interesting thing happened. As I headed out the door to catch the Metro and head to the office, I realized that my pants were too short. Way too short.Now, I pay fairly close attention to my wardrobe, as you might guess, and I know that all the pants in my closet should fit. Some are more fitted than others, but when it comes to the basics –like length– they all should fit just fine.
I was already running late and did not have time to turn back so I decided to deal with my errant trousers at work. The lightweight poplin pants from J. Crew were fairly new so this turn of events was a bit odd.
Once I took a good look at the hem, I had an on-the-fly solution. Using my handy Swiss Army knife, I quickly ripped out the seams. In just a few minutes I had a new pair of shabby-chic summer khakis in the proper length. Since there is now no room for a new turned hem, I plan on having the bottoms stitched as is with a somewhat raw edge. Though I hate to admit it, in retrospect I think the legs lost their length in the wash – so I’ll take the blame on this one.
I bring up this story because that same day I happened to be wearing a Charles Tyrwhitt banker-stripe shirt that also suffers from length issues. In this case, the sleeves were exactly too short for my arms. The French cuffs landed just above the wrist bones and as a result they just never fit correctly. I loved the shirt but could never wear it as intended.
So, instead of throwing it in the donation pile, I found a simple and stylish solution: I rolled up the sleeves. In fact, because the sleeves we too short to begin with, once rolled up, they fit perfectly without any excess bulk.
Since then, that shirt has been my repurposed “dressy casual” rolled sleeves shirt. Since it has a spread collar and high-set second button, it looks just right with no tie and the sleeves rolled up. Paired with trim khakis and loafers, the whole look strikes a nice Michael Bastian-ish tone.
The fact that I had to perform emergency surgery on my (formerly) dressy summer khakis, while wearing my repurposed “dressy casual dress shirt” seemed somehow appropriate and led me to think about the act of choosing to repurpose good clothes that are just exactly no longer usable.
I say “just exactly” because these are the pieces you still like but are no longer right for regular wear because of an ancillary issue (too short sleeves, too high hems or a too tight collar) and not a primary defect (waist too tight/loose, too narrow leg, major staining or irreparable tear).
As long as it’s otherwise comfortably wearable, you can probably save the item, either through one of my incredibly clever methods described above or through another equally creative approach provided by your tailor.
So, before your toss formerly beloved garments from your wardrobe, take a second look at that shirt, or those pants. If you can repurpose them, then by all means give it a shot. But if they’ve reached the end of the road, pull the trigger and make a donation so that someone else can benefit from your good taste.
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16 comments:
Cool idea. I "repurposed" a brand new dress shirt. It had been marked down from $90 to $25. Alas, the sleeves were to short. However, the pattern went so well with a handful of my neckties; I had to get it. I repurposed it as my dress shirt underneath my v neck sweater look. No one will ever know that the sleeves are too short. All that they will see is a killer combination between my tie and dress shirt. Not bad for $25.
I have a shirt that I love, but the neck does not fit. I would like to convert the "point collar" to a "button down". Have you ever heard of a tailor doing this? Any ideas or thoughts?
Glenn - great story! thanks very much for sharing. It's a perfect example of taking something you already have and like, and putting it to use in a new way. Definitely worth the $25.
SFTrny - Interesting question. When you say the that the neck doesn't fit, do you mean it's too tight? I'm guessing that is the case, in which case the answer is probably, "it depends."
The goal in this case is presumably to make the shirt wearable without a tie and on its own - like a button-down collared shirt.
If the collar points are long, you might have some luck seeing if a tailor can add collar buttons and holes.
The problem will likely be that button-down collars are shaped and attached differently than point collars. They tend to stand higher to allow the collar to gently fold over and attache to the buttons. Point collars are usually set lower and lie flatter to the shirt's body.
If you have a good alterations tailor, I'd try there fist. Let us know how it turns out.
The NYTimes did an article about "preppy fashion" today (see http://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/17/fashion/18codes.html) I must say, articles like that drive me absolutely nuts. They bring attention to the world brands, like Alden, J. Press, Bill's Khakis etc., that are better left to those who understand its origins. While this sounds pretentious, understand where I am coming from.
I wrote to you a few weeks about Vineyard Vines and Martha's Vineyard (the exploitation of a way of life). I feel this hits the same note. A northeasterner now living in D.C., there are certain types of fashion that simply accompany a way one was raised. "Preppy," in the article's view, or the view of most, does not embody $400 sunglasses and $1,200 blazers from Ralph Lauren. One may have suits custom made, but that's because they appreciate good tailoring, not because I want to show others I can afford a off-the-rack jacket from the Ralph Lauren store on Wisconsin Avenue in Georgetown.
The article refers to the "Take Ivy" book done by a Japanese photographer in the mid-1960s. I suppose the problem I have with articles like this pertain to exploiting "misunderstanding" of this type of fashion--which is exactly the point--it's actually not a type of "fashion." I wore blue blazers, Weejuns, and button down shirts as a child not because it was "cool," but because my boarding school required me to do so. My parents understood that dressing nice, or in the article's view, "preppy," was done to show respect for yourself and others. Moreover, things like Nantucket Reds should be left to those who actually go to the Vineyard and Nantucket, not some hipster or fashion-guru who thinks it's the next new trend.
The New York Times, and other fashion periodicals, publish these stories both because they attract readers and because they believe they are hitting on the "next new thing." Instead, they are turning a long-running culture into some kind of trend, portraying classically dressed individuals as purveyors of preppy fashion.
Overall, the article portrays a preppy fashion that is simply incorrect with the true foundation of northeast dress. Those “preppies” they speak have turned to companies like Brooks Brothers for decades not because madras was hip, but because it was a classic type of dress that was suitable for almost any occasion.
Z - thanks for the comment. I actually just read the article and have to say that I found it pretty well balanced and interesting.
Your point is a classic one (pun intended) in that preppy to you is a cherished and exclusive lifestyle. Nantucket reds belong on Nantucket.
But I like double vented suit coats; am I allowed? I grew up in Connecticut not London. I'm not pretending to be from London, I just like that style.
This is a really interesting debate....let me percolate on it.
OTC-
I appreciate the response. The purpose of the post was not to exemplify an exclusive lifestyle, but differentiate article's view that "preppy" is not a fashion statement, but simply a way long-ingrained culture of dress.
Exclusivity is commonly associated with negative stereotypes; this is an unfortunate attribute that is being attached to the concept of "preppy" dress. However, the dress, as I mentioned, is simply the result of the boarding school culture and a New England style of dress. "Preppy," as anyone knows, derives from "Preparatory Schools," which embrace precepts of continuing education, not any sort of "style."
Therefore, this is not the embodiment of "exclusivity" (while many may claim it is), but the understanding that "preppy" has simply been attached to this style of "classic dress." And, with that negative connotation have come people like Marc Jacobs, etc. that turn it into a style point, when in fact, the dress was intended to adopt an understated nature. This, I believe, is the common misunderstanding. Because one goes to the Vineyard, or attends prep school, or lives in Connecticut is not meant to signify exclusivity, that's not the point. Instead, the true concept of what is referred to as a "prep" is someone who dresses conservatively, spends conservatively, and does not seek an elitist twist on life (or, as the New York Times so incorrectly asserts, style).
-Z
I can't count the times Iv'e done something similar to this.
Most recently, my wife washed a Jos A. Bank dress shirt and of course the sleeves shrank. So rolling up the sleeves were in order, as well as wearing a nice v-neck cashmere swearter over it.
Loved the story. Channeling MacGyver!
I am doing the exact same thing today with a Tyrwhitt shirt !!! I've found that some of their product does indeed shrink.
Roll em up and be happy.
JB
Ha! I'll have to remember that MacGyver reference - makes me feel so cool.
JB - Glad to hear I'm not alone. Maybe Tyrwhitt has an arm-length issue...
Repurposing works! I have two oxford cloth button downs that I hardly ever wore since I bought them years ago. I lift weights, and the upper part of my 'traps' may have grown (crazy since I'm over 40), so the shirts' neck sizes are too tight. Repositioning the top button at the collar closure didn't resolve the problem. Now I wear both tie-less as 'sport' shirts. It works.
Yeah CT definitely has a sleeve length issue. Apparently they do no quality control from their suppliers here. I've found it's pretty much a crapshoot when it comes to arm length.
I found a Ralph Lauren Oxford cloth button down for five dollars. However, it has a horrid monogram style logo on the pocket. But, if I always wear it with a sweater no one will see the revolting logo-wear (unless I end up in the hospital).
Kenneth - Great point. I do the same with a couple my old oxfords once the cooler weather rolls in. Five dollars - great deal, even with the overblown artwork!
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