Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Style Guide: The Polo Shirt

Polo shirts are the cornerstone of any classic warm weather wardrobe and have been so for generations.

Though when they hear “polo” shirt most people think Polo ™ shirt, the first truly branded version was developed in 1929 for tennis legend Rene’ “The Crocodile” Lacoste.

Lacoste wanted a comfortable shirt to replace the traditional, but totally impractical dress shirt and tie worn by tennis players at the time. In doing so, he unwittingly produced one of the most versatile warm weather shirts ever. Whether tagged with a little reptile or tiny horseman, the polo shirt belongs in your summer rotation.

I would suggest that the polo shirt is in fact one of the great sartorial innovations of the last few generations. With its unique ability to straddle the elusive line between casual and formal, the classic polo can carry you from the office to the country club with little stress. In today’s corporate casual world, day to day office wear can be a challenge and while I do not suggest that a knit polo shirt is right for every occasion, when paired with a sharp outfit you should be good to go.



Khakis are a traditional choice and usually fine for most situations. Just ensure that you do not pull on the going-to-pick-up-a-can-of-paint pants. Opt for a nice pair in fine cotton – the ones constructed like dress pants. Keep it less stuffy with clean boat shoes or penny loafers and a woven leather or ribbon belt.

For a more business feel, try a dressy belt with a silver monogrammed buckle, blue blazer and high grade slip-ins from Ben Silver. I’ve even seen a black polo paired with a pinstriped suit; very sharp in a George Clooney sort of way. Be careful with that one, not many men can actually pull it off.

Whatever look you’re trying to achieve, make sure to follow these simple guidelines to always be your best when sporting a polo shirt this summer. First, as always, ensure that the fit is right.



Avoid going too baggy, an annoying sin of the younger set. A trim fit across the shoulders – so the shirt’s shoulder seams actually land on your shoulder – should be your first goal. You don’t want any pulling or bunching, just a natural and comfortable fit. The body of the shirt should lightly touch yours, but not pull or feel tight.

The sleeve should hit around mid-bicep and be fitted but not constricting. When un-tucked, your shirt should hang no lower than your hips. In no case should it cover your rear like some kind of mini skirt; that never looks good.

Regardless of how well it fits, when in the office, keep your shirt tucked in.

Even when you’re going for a younger look, say with modern jeans and some vintage shoes, a trim fit will keep everything looking fresh. Many designers have come out with slimmer fitting polo shirts, so make sure you try on several brands and see what feels best. And trim does not mean tight – unless you want it tight of course, which is another look altogether.

In my case Ralph Lauren shirts fit very well. The body, arms and length are just right. Still, I pine for a Lacsote polo but the cut is just too way slim for my build. I also have several Brooks Brothers shirts and they fit me well, but not as well as the Polo™ polos. These are only a few of the many designers who make their own version of the polo shirt, so be sure to look around and decide what's best for you when it comes to fit, style, and color.



One of the best things about these versatile shirts is that they come in almost any color under the sun. Basic white to jet black; solid color or preppy stripe, you can find it.

They also happen to age very well. That really beat up old polo at the bottom of the shirt drawer - the one with the seriously frayed collar? It will look great at the clam bake with some faded khaki shorts and gin & tonic.

11 comments:

Mark said...

Lately I've been wearing GAP polo shirts, but those Ralph Lauren polo shirts age really well, don't they. If you have any New York readers, I'd also recommend Uniqlo's polo shirts and khaki's - they do a nice job of stocking basic (polo shirts) and fashion forward (drawstring khakis) designs that complement each other well.

Anonymous said...

Trouble is, good polos have an annoying tendency to feature the trademark of the company on the left breast. Generally, if I'm going to advertise for a company, I like to be the one getting paid. I don't relish the idea of plunking down $75, only to be used as a free billboard for the life of the shirt.

C.S.

Anonymous said...

don't bother wearing a polo if your abs aren't trim and taught - a pot belly in a polo is all too common and not at all a good look

Off The Cuff said...

Mark,

Thanks for the recommendation on Uniqlo, I don't have any of their shirts but might give them a try.

I do have a couple of gap polos but they never quite fit right. I agree that the trademark thing can get annoying, but small ones don't bother me too much.

Mark said...

That's a big plus with both Uniqlo and the Gap - no annoying trademarks.

bds said...

You're spot on about polo's aging well. I still have a few left from prep school. For my body, Ralph Lauren is also a great fit. I find that when you get used to a certain companies polo it's hard to switch it up. When I finally did switch it up I was delighted to find that Benneton makes a great polo if you can pull off a slimmer cut. They usually have a great sale towards the end of the summer.

Avenue Swank said...

Is there a Uniqlo in the DC area? I know about the NY store, but a DC one would make me extremely happy right now!

Off The Cuff said...

Avenue - I wish; but as far as I am aware, we're Uniqlo-less in DC.

jumbojeff said...

I definitely love polos. I've been searching long and hard for my ideal polo. Basically my ideal polo would be the exact same thing as Polo brand polo, but without the logo. It has to have the 2-button raised placket, drop-tail hem, no logo, banded sleeves, good fit, good quality, and clean cut. None of that pre-worn/frayed bs.

Polo/Hilfiger/Nautica: Worth the money if there was no logo
Gap/Old Navy: No Drop-tail hem
Lacoste: Felt absolutely great and looked great when trying it on, bought one, followed instructions for washing it, 2 weeks later it had shrunk in some places and stretched out in others. Worst polo I've ever bought. Decided to stick with cheaper, more durable shirts from then on. None of that high-end designer tomfoolery
Target/Cherokee Ultimate Polo: Fit was a tad off but super cheap and overall great. Unfortunately the design has changed and the new ones don't have the raised placket.
Brooks Bros: Nada
JCrew: Decent
American Eagle/Abercrombie/Hollister, etc: Never in my life
Eddie Bauer: No Dice
Izod: Eh
Vineyard Vines: Probably not
Yada yada yada…
Lands’ End: This is where it’s at.
http://www.landsend.com/pp/ShortSleevePerformanceMeshPoloShirt~184028_-1.html?bcc=y&action=order_more&sku_0=::COB&CM_MERCH=IDX_00001__0000000018&origin=index

Off The Cuff said...

Jumbojeff - great rundown of brands and your experience. I like the drop tail style as well. It provides a nice balance for the shirt's form and function.

I haven't shopped Lands' End in a while and will need to check out their polos. Thanks for recommendation.

james Costa said...

You guys should check out www.carpeusa.com - great polos...