Friday, May 09, 2008

The Urban Adventurer

I’ve noticed a lot more urban adventurers out there recently. Unlike the gentleman to the left, they’re not out climbing a glacier or trekking the Appalachian Trail. No, they're just going to work.

These are the guys who look like they’re in the process of summiting K2, but in reality it's more like strolling up Capitol Hill.

You’ve probably seen them too; out driving their sport edition Range Rover (spotless by the way), carrying their laptop in an expedition quality backpack and weathering the occasional spring shower in a Patagonia monsoon-proof rain shell.

I don’t want to pick a fight with anyone. I’ve said at least a dozen times that classic, preppy styles center around the idea of repurposing functional clothing for daily life. I mean, who do you think started the trend of wearing foul weather gear to the office anyway?

Most people follow this train of thought in some way. The difference here is that too often men who yearn to be manly men turn themselves in to affected parodies of their heroes. Everyone role plays a little bit; I like messenger bags, but I’m no bike messenger. Some sport military fashions yet have never so much as scraped a knee, or wear team jerseys that barely fit over their couch potato paunch.

These looks are usually a desire to connect with a cherished role model or organization. It’s a search for identity and belonging; aspirational but not overblown.

Yet when it comes to the couture mountain man look, moderation seems to go out the window. Even if you really are a transcontinental hiker, please don’t wear your Fortress Peak GTX hiking boots to the office. It’s tacky.

When worn in moderation, I think the outdoorsy look is classic, fresh and emotionally fulfilling. One feels a little more independent, perhaps a bit lone wolf about life. While I do agree with my fellow MensFlair contributor Winston Chesterfield, that strapping on a back pack while wearing a business suit is tantamount to sartorial blasphemy, the pairing of a technical jacket with selected business attire is really quite pleasing.

With casual office environments quite common, the appearance of rip stop cargo pants and hybrid "trekking" sneakers have proliferated as well. Throw on a moisture wicking pullover to combat the air conditioning's chill and you might as well be at base camp. I suppose it's better than flip flops and shorts, but why not at least try and dress a little better for for your office mates? Pairing cargo pants and and a casual oxford, pulled together with a wide leather belt, is a great alternative. Instead of a North Face Skareb 55 backpack, why not a Jack Spade waxwear file case instead?



A mountaineering coat may be rugged and functional, but its scale and overall feel should still match your other clothing. Neon orange and yellow serve a purpose in the wilderness but can be a little too much on an early morning metro ride. Try sticking to neutral, earthy colors instead.

Should the weather turn and you throw on a rain shell before heading out, the basic rules of proportion still hold true. The outer jacket should cover your suit or sport coat and not leave it hanging out the bottom.

If done well, the look says you are at home in both the outdoors and the corner office. Your clothes, particularly in this case, should not look gimmicky or forced.

And if you happen to be wearing a bespoke super 100 two-button suit and nice alligator slip-ins, just leave the mountain man coat at home.

46 comments:

  1. First off, I'm a subscriber.

    Off the Cuff is certainly a Manshion favorite, and I'll be sure to reference you in the future.

    Book bag apparatus with suit? Completely against manshion house rules.

    All-terrain performance outerwear paired with business casual-wear? A future topic I no longer need to write about.. however, an inspiration for new candid photo ops (as in operations).

    Keep it up, I always read your work.

    www.manshion.net
    man fashion. simple.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Anonymous7:23 PM

    The Preppies started the trend of wearing rugged outdoor gear in town. Of course, then, L.L Bean stuff was all natural -- cotton barn jackets, rubber and leather duck boots, and goose down vests. And I still find nothing wrong with Sam Watterson donning a Barbour Hunting Jacket on Law and Order.

    BUT, I must agree that neon plastic is OTT with business attire. Perhaps in town on foul weekends, but otherwise keep it in the Alps.

    ReplyDelete
  3. The proper line between combining a business suit and outdoor gear requires a knowledge of many rules that few can attain. It depends on where you are and who you are going to meet. As to a bag, even I am in a quandary. I've left behind the leather briefcase I carried as a young man. But nowadays with the keys, cellphone, blackberry, paperwork, a checkbook, a pill,maybe a comb, chapstick, matches, and yea cigarettes; where do I put all this stuff?? I haven't found the answer and my pants look like I'm clown. I'm just not ready for the manpurse. Help!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Anonymous11:39 AM

    Would someone please post some pic's of what not to do and maybe some of what would deem as acceptable? I live and work in Portland where the business attire consists of: Khaki's, Oxford shirt (minus tie) and Columbia Sportswear jacket.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Anonymous12:39 PM

    Portland,

    I believe the "Left Coast" has always gone its own way regarding style. And when I have had the pleasure of visiting, the more relaxed attitudes just seemed to fit well with the topography and climate in a way that just wouldn't fly on the Northeastern Seaboard.

    Thus, back East, you might at least add a tie and a sport coat or blazer -- perhaps a suit sans tie if business contacts know you're a west coast guy. And, for a jaunty or sporting look, use a waxed-cotton field coat (e.g., Barbour, Partridge) instead of a traditional trench (e.g., Burberry or Brooks) for a rain coat. In winter, you might substitute a school-boy style Toggle Coat for a Chesterfield.

    Generally speaking, just don't mix business and Gore-Tex when east of the Mississippi. Also, avoid neon bike-messenger bags or backpacks as substitutes for brief cases. If leather is not your thing, then at least try a black, soft-sided, ballistic nylon carrier from Lands' End or LL Bean.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Portland - DB said it all. I absolutely agree that in your case a heavier mix of dress and outdoor clothing is the rule, not the exception.

    Chris

    ReplyDelete
  7. Paul - Thanks for the kind words, not a bad site yourself.

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