
Brands and labels do matter; sometimes to others but more often to us writers. There is a certain cache to having an Etro suit as opposed to a mere Jos. A Bank; not only is the quality usually better but so is the “check me out” factor. But does the brand always have to be front and center?
When it comes to clothing, especially dress and tailored clothing, you do usually get what you pay for. Creating a well made odd jacket, for example, takes the time and effort of an experienced tailor and will involve more expensive materials. The amount of skill needed to construct a hand rolled lapel alone is prohibitively expensive for most average consumers.
For those of us who feel that the benefits of such craftsmanship are well worth the expense, arguing over the perceived value of a label is a rather moot point. But what about traditionally less glamorous articles of clothing – like jeans?
I know there has been a lot discussion of late about the benefits of raw, vintage, selvage, destroyed and every other sort of designer denim. The very design of the jean pant has evolved dramatically over the past few years. In fact, many see denim as the next big design movement for men.
Here is my problem: I like basic jeans. As I am now closer to 40 than 30, my need for a jean wardrobe has diminished. I simply don’t wear them as much as I used to. While I have flexibility when it comes to what I can wear to the office, I prefer tailored clothing. And when it comes to jeans, I happen to like them basic, functional and classic.

I’ve decided that Levi’s classic 505 jeans are right for me. Nothing fancy; no hand sanding or customized distressing. I don’t want to break in my jeans for three months or dote over them like an expectant father. Though I have very high standards when it comes to most of the wardrobe, jeans are the exception. To me, they are supposed to be basic and casual. Jeans are iconic because of their lack of embellishment and fussiness. The very functionality of jeans is what makes them so archetypal.
Surprisingly, this opinion has left me with an odd feeling of not being too cool. Everywhere I look, I see a growing cadre of men’s designer jeans that can cost three to four times as much as the plain old five-pocket classics I prefer. Am I out of the loop; out of touch with current trends and the truly stylish? Shouldn’t I want to pull on APC or 7 For All Mankind? What about Rag and Bone? For more than $200, shouldn’t they be so much better than plain old Levis’ ring spun cotton?
At times I have fretted over my lack of designer jean obsession. I can talk for hours about the nuances of jacket venting (double), cashmere versus merino (merino, actually), and the ideal gray flannel trouser (Incotex). So, why not jeans?
After considering this case from a number of angles, I have found an answer that works for me: I don’t care; it’s just what I like. When it comes to jeans, I go for the basics. That doesn’t mean I don’t appreciate the creativity and unique quality that designers jeans offer; I do.
But, as is common in matters of fashion, I have likes and dislikes that are particular to me. And though I have no problem paying a premium for certain things, the jeans that work for me are just plain old jeans.

Recently, I did add another pair to my wardrobe but don't hold your breath waiting to hear that I dropped $400 on some hand-loomed job. They are Gap jeans - a nice dark washed 1969 Vintage model.
At around $60.00 they are reasonably priced and I like how they fit. A little more stylishly cut than my 505s, they are what I consider my "going out jeans." Of course, with a baby on the way the only going out I'll be doing in the near future is to pick up diapers.
Amen. I agree that Rock and Republic, True Religion, etc. are grossly over priced -- $50 or $60 should be plenty to secure serviceable dungarees!
ReplyDeleteTowards that I end, I recommend Lands' End. They makes 'em in various fits AND RISES, which is quite rare. The quality of the fabric is tops and the stitching uniformly excellent. Plus, LE will hem 'em in 1/4 inch lengths!
Still, I just scored a few pair of classic, relaxed-cut Lucky Brand Jeans because they have a tad more flair and whimsy. But, I got them at a discounter for less than $50 a pair. So, if you must have a label, shop diligently!
Nice post. Agreed. Demin trousers should not cost a bundle. I prefer Levis (501s and 505s) and Lucky Brand jeans, in dark indogo washes. They look wonderful when paired with suede loafers, white or blue OCBD, and a braided leather belt or surcingle belt.
ReplyDeleteI couldn't agree more. I am an urban professional in my mid-20s, and feel like I should be wearing some designer denim, but have no real reason or desire to. I'll keep my distressed Levi's, distressed from years of use. The only kind of vintage they are is vintage me, and I like it that way. There's just something to be said about being true to yourself.
ReplyDeleteThanks guys - I'm glad to see I'm not the only person out there slightly mystified by by the couture denim thing.
ReplyDeleteDB - I've had lots of LE outerwear over the years but have never tried their jeans. Thanks for the mention.
Since I see Lucky Brand mentioned twice, I may have to check some out.
I recently splurged and bought a pair of Jake Agave Ojai jeans that were on sale, but still in excess of $130. Curiosity made me do it. I wanted to see what one "gets" for that sort of money, and whether I was missing something by sticking with the same $60 Levis. The Agave fabric is unmistakably superior to my regular jean purchases (tighter weave, softer hand), but construction and fit seem about equal. The jeans face their first wash this week and I want to see what happens, if they hold their shape, after a dozen or so washes. I'm certainly not sorry I bought them although I'm not yet certain I will make such jean purchases on a regular basis.
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